去阿西西的路上,我们翻过一座雪山。
上山时M君数度挂错档位,小破车傲娇,走走停停,后来者纷纷鸣笛超车,鄙视之情溢于言表。
我跟C女士只得蜷在后座,羞愤欲裂。
至山巅,展眼见云层绵绵密密,堆叠于天际线上。空气清透,却很凛冽。
我们毅然下车踏雪,在空空如也的国道上,拍悬浮照数张,之后继续赶路。
转眼盘下山来,北麓竟然十分晴朗。
橄榄树、田野、村庄和教堂一一掠过,日色柔丽无比。
天知道我有多想去那片绿山坡上打个滚,一路滚到佛罗伦萨去。
云在天上,风在草中,而灵魂在体内,似已安顿。
我徒劳地举着相机,狂按快门,即便知道此等空阔与绵密与柔软的原野,拍不尽也拍不出。所谓拍摄,实则是一种无助。
此刻我在画中,但画不属我、不与我亲。
美,如此鲜明地在场,于我却如此抽象,毫无关涉。这样的感受,此行在意大利遇到太多太多次。
东方人在欧美,或者常生此类疏离之叹。
阿西西(Assisi)亦是顺山势而起的一座中世纪小城。
是天主教圣方济各会创始人San Francesco的出生地。
周遭都是橄榄树林跌跌宕宕,一丘一丘灰银绿,随着风,扑簌簌闪到山脚下去。
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遂一头扎入,据案大嚼一番,聊以果腹。
山巅有一座古堡,历数百年劲风而不毁,依然维持一种雄伟的残姿。
非常冷,我们之外,再有几个日本少年,除此没有别的游客。
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风水上讲,建在此等险要之地的房子都太动荡,往往令居者神思恍惚,是凶宅。
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我在小说《欢国》里写过这样的无脸人,然而亲见到底还是悚然。
这地方实在令人惊怯。
阿西西城不大,却有很多教堂。
最美的当属圣方济各大教堂。外观非常朴实,不过是奶黄色砖石结构的建筑,共有三层:上堂、下堂和地下墓室。
然而一旦身临其中,便如来到海底。拱顶深蓝色,极高,极远,兼具拜占庭与罗马风格。
两侧皆是壁画,为乔托所作,尺寸极大,严禁拍摄。
在圣方济各的墓室中,我曾略坐一坐。
人们一到这里仿佛被施了哑咒,极为静默。他们跪下、祷告、默默离去,大多表现得十分克制。
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不知他有多大的痛苦需要倾吐,我暗暗希望他能得救赎。
但我想,所谓救赎实则都在内心,人的身上自有耶稣光,“你若信,便必得着。”
出来时正遇上一场夕照。
日光寂静而沸腾地滚滚而来,我环顾四周石头墙上热烈的返照,仿佛置身黄金城池。
站在城头俯瞰下去,整个绿色平原笼罩着一层菲薄之金,天空中乱云飞渡,都是淡淡玫瑰色,十分壮阔。
教堂对面有一间餐厅,店主是个高大的女人,神情非常倨傲。
但好在此间的茴香口味Gelato好吃,勺子是一片蛋黄饼干,佐以日落,倍觉豪华。
后来在回旅馆的路上见到一位苦修士。
老迈,鹑衣百结,在零下的气温中赤足行走。他的脚因为多年不穿鞋已结了一层厚痂。
他应已在城中住了多年,路上很多人同他打招呼。寒风中,他行走自若,比寒风更为凛冽。
灵与肉,心智与欲念,一方牺牲,则另一方得以升华;一方损毁,则另一方得以健全。——宗教的观念。
我仰慕这一位苦修士,但并不想成为他。
耽欲者如我,将始终渴慕醇酒、佳肴、漂亮男女。
那夜喝了不少红酒,睡得很沉,一夜黑甜无梦。
起身时天刚破晓,街巷寂然,我们即将踏上寻找Prada工厂店的旅程。
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手机卡坏了,于是丢了一大撮人的号码。hotmail被微软强J成了skype,于是联系人都莫名其妙的不知所踪。幸好还特么记得有这里。还真是不好意思,因为失踪的时间太久,久到其实不存在也没什么关系。但还是忍不住寻了来露一小脸儿,因为无以名状的感觉。我换了工作,在一个公司做了九年半之后终于不得不离开,真是一点都不开心。希望可以在新的地方慢慢好起来吧。我知道你有我的号码,无聊的时候你可以拨一拨。我是风风,没人为我代言(噗)
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每次看完你的文字,就像有机会见你一面多好,但见了面,估计也没啥可聊的。不过有机会还是想会会你,我带八荒和琉璃火去,一本签歌女,一本签逍遥兽。哈,我是带梦,也没人为我代言(嗷嗷~~)
使劲的想了想,似乎想起你是谁了哈哈
那些走过的时光依然动听,你总能从中了解些什么幻化为文字。词藻繁杂,内心清澈,一段话,几个文字,构成了内心一小部分蓝图。忘记在哪本书上看到这样的一段文字:心有猛虎,细嗅蔷薇,盛宴过后,泪流满面。
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